Cluster Lashes Application
A Tutorial by Kate Dearn, Solar Centre Beauty, UK
Note: This Tutorial was edited with the author's permission. We encourage you to visit Kate's site at Solar Centre Beauty
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
- non oily eye make up remover
- Pointy tweezers
- Cluster Lashes in various sizes (mostly small and medium)
- Lash adhesive (My preference is Salon Systems individual lash glue, in Black)
Preparation I like to perform an eye lash tint before applying lashes to give extra intensity / darkness.
It is advisable to perform a skin test for the adhesive as you would with an eye lash tint. Just put a little dot of glue behind their ear (it will dry and drop off soon enough) and will be enough to see if the client reacts negatively (rare).
Looking at the clients lashes, you need to distinguish what length lashes to use. I dont like to go too much longer as I find most clients end up not liking them and asking for them to be trimmed.
Cleanse eye area; make sure it is free from make up, oil and lint. Make sure there is no residue and the area is completely dry.
Dispense your adhesive into a clean, small glass tint bowl and only dispense a little at a time as it dries quickly.
Application
Apply the lashes starting from the outer corner.
Ask the client to keep their eyes closed throughout. Note: After every few lashes gently pull their upper lid open to ensure you haven't stuck the top lashes to the bottom.
Sit the tray of lashes facing away from you (ie bulb closest to you). You will notice that the trays have little 'gaps' underneath the lashes. This is where i poke my tweezers under to pick up the lash. Dont pull on one single 'hair' as this will make the lash go a funny shape. Always pick the lashes up from the side and grab onto the whole cluster like this:

Keeping hold of the lash cluster wth your tweezers and either dip or drag the bulb through your adhesive. You only need a pin head size ball of adhesive. I like to get the adhesive over the entire bulb, rather than just on the underneath. This is because of the way I apply the lashes... Instead of just placing the cluster on the top of the natural lash line, I like to sandwich it in (slide the bulb in between the layers of natural lash). This gives much better adherance as the cluster is stuck to more of the natural lash. This will also help to hold the clusters in place for longer, as sometimes they can end up going a bit wonky after a few days if not applied properly.
The adhesive takes about a minute to set properly so don't let the client open their eye before the glue is set as it can dislodge the lashes. (you can gently pull their upper eyelid open slightly to make sure they arent stuck together - this is important)
I always use a longer length (next size up) on the outer corners to give the eyes a really flirty look. Usually about 4 or 5 clusters will do the trick.
Trimming the lashes is tricky, as the ends are staggered. NEVER EVER cut them straight across. Always cut into them. Ideally avoid trimming them at all.
Spacing the lashes will differ from client to client depending on how much natural lash they already have. Some will only want a few longer clusters applied on the outer corner to open the eye up, in which case apply approx 5 - 6 clusters will do, 1 - 2 mm apart. (imagine leaving a gap the size of the bulb). I would always blend the longer lashes into the natural lashes with 1 or 2 of the smaller sized lashes.
When applying the lashes all across the lash line ,you can leave less space in between each cluster if you wanted to, as you will not see the difference in density or thickness from the enhanced lashes to the natural lashes.
Before:

After:
 

WoW, big difference and this is what eyelash enhancement can do for you. Outstanding instruction, Kate and we thank you for sharing your expertise.
Kate can be reached by email at KateDearn@hotmail.co.uk and is a regular contributor at a popular site in the UK called, Salon Geek. She has a great deal of experience and training and is regarded highly amongst her peers.
Thank you again Kate!

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